A morning at Hwagok Market

A morning at Hwagok Market

Ten minutes on foot from Landol Stay, past the convenience store and the pharmacy, there is a covered market that has not changed much in thirty years.

Go before nine

The vegetable stalls are stocked by seven and picked over by eleven. The best hour is between eight and nine, when the side-dish shops put out what they made that morning.

What to buy

Sesame oil, pressed and bottled at the shop on the left as you enter. Perilla leaves in summer. And a bag of kkwabaegi — twisted doughnuts — from the stand at the far end, which are only good for about twenty minutes.

How to pay

Most stalls take card now, but small ones still prefer cash. There is an ATM at the entrance that takes foreign cards.

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